Ole! Ole!

There is nothing more attractive than a man in a sequin outfit with pink socks. Bull fighters, ladies and gentlemen. It’s all about the bull fighters. 

For those that have not witnessed a bull fight before, it may appear to be unjust and barbaric, and I admit, that I was one of those people. But once I saw my first bull fight last year and saw that it was not just a killing spree, but a dramatic, man vs bull fight to the death, well then, I was hooked.

Bull fighting is alive and well in Peru, as well as other Latin American countries, like Columbia, Ecuador, and Mexico. There countries, including Peru, take after the style of bull fighting from their mother land of Spain, among many other aspects of the Latin American culture. 

But sticking to bull fighting…Each bull fight traditionally has three bull fighters or torero (also known as matador), each of which fights two bulls each. Each torero has a team that includes two picadores (“lancers on horseback”), three banderilleros (“dancers with sticks”), and a mozo de espadas (“sword page”).  This cuadrilla or entourage work together to kill a bull the quickest and most humane way possible.

Now on to the costumes. Torero costumes are easily called traje de luces or “suits of lights” because of all the sequins lining their outfits. The pants come way above the waist and are accompanied by a small matching jacket. Hats are optional, not all bull fighters wear them, but they bare a vague resemblance between Disneyland Mickey Mouse ears and Princess Lea’s hair-do. And who can forget the pink socks, which I might add, give a little something extra to the costumes. And last but not least, black ballet flats as the bull fighters fight on just sand, although from the last bull fight I saw, shoes appear to be optional.  

Each bull fight has three distinct stages or tercios (“thirds”), which are announced by the sound of a bugle. I know, very middle ages. First the bull fighting teams enter the arena in a parade to salute the crowd, and more importantly the presiding dignitary and judges, who decide who wins the bull fights because yes, it is a competition. Next, the bull enters the ring to be tested by the toreros and banderilleros for its behavior and quirks. They test the bull by using a capote or “cape” of gold on one side and magenta on the other.  This stage is called the tercio de varas or “The lancing third.” Next comes out the picadores or the lancers on horseback. The goal is for the picador to stab the bull just behind the neck of the bull to weaken the neck muscles, preparing it for the later stages. If the picador is successful, the bull will hold its head and horns slightly lower during the following stages of the fight lessening its chances of injuring the bull fighter. However in the bulls standpoint, seeing a man on a horse pointing a sharp stick at itself doesn’t exactly sit well for the bull, so the bull usually charges at the horse. But don’t worry; the horse is wearing a protective padding, as is the picador. Apparently prior to 1930, horses did not wear any protection and there were usually more horses killed in a bull fight than bulls. 

At this point of the bull fight, if the bull proves to be too small or too smart as to attack the picador, it can be “pardoned” by the judge and the people. I say the people because bull fights are very much democratic in that the audience goes very Roman on the judge and bull fighters, often times booing and throwing trash at the arena. You don’t want to mess with a bull fighting crowd, as they are very volatile. If the bull is pardoned, then it gets to return to where he came from and enjoy the rest of his life as a stud. Happily ever after.

In the next stage, called the tercio de banderillas (“the third of banderillas”), the three banderilleros attempt to plant two banderillas, sharp barbed sticks, into the bulls’ shoulders. This stage is by far my favorite as the banderilleros could double as ballerinas at the next opening of Swan Lake. They often start by standing on their tippy toes with their arms in the air with the banderillas pointing straight at the bull about 20 feet away. The take a little hop and then run head on to the bull and do a perfectly timed jump and stick the banderillas in the bull’s back, and then runs like hell. This, for obvious reason, often infuriates the bull and makes them more bravo or dangerous. Sometimes a torero likes to plant his own banderillas, and in the case of the bull fight I watched, the torero did all 6 banderillas by himself, barefoot. Seriously, bull fighting is anything but dramatic. 

The third stage called the tercio de muerte (“the third of death”) is obviously the last stage of a bull fight. In this stage, the torero enters the arena with a muleta or red cape and a small sword. The torero uses his cape to attract the bull in a series of passes which serve the dual purpose of wearing the animal down for the kill and producing a beautiful display or faena, or what I like to call the full cockiness of the bull fighter. In the bull fights that I have seen, the bull fighters try to demonstrate his dominance over the bull by trying to get close to his body and at times touching the horns and tail. I’ve also seen bull fighters straight up lunge right in front of the bull and stare him in the eye. If and when this happens, a loud scream thought to come from a 16 year old will most likely slip out of my mouth. When the torero does his series of passes, the crowd usually shouts “Ole” with each pass, not unlike the soccer “ole,” but a bit slower. This stage ends with the bull fighter hopefully tiring out the bull so that he can stab the bull between the shoulder blades and if done correctly, straight through the aorta of the heart. This is the main goal, but unfortunately, does not happen every time, which is when I admit that is when bull fighting gets cruel. But when done correctly, the bull falls down immediately. 

After the bull has died comes the ruling from the crowd and the judge. If the torero has done an exceptional job, the crowd waves their white pañuelos or handkerchiefs meanwhile screaming dos orejas or two ears. Ears are awarded to bull fighters who do outstandingly well.  Apparently the tail of the bull can be rewarded as well, but I have yet to see that. 

So there you have it folks, a good old fashion afternoon entertainment. I know that there are many people against such an event, but to me, it is something that I truly enjoy and will miss the coming year as this year was my last Chota Fest for a while. 

So I invite all of you, if you ever get a chance, to see a bull fight in person, and if you don’t want to see a bull killed than at the very least, just come for the bull fighters…